Road Stories

Improving Foreign Relations

(1988)  There was a sizeable Polish community in former West Berlin during the late Eighties.  Notwithstanding financial considerations at the time, these big-hearted, hardy folk had a certain distrust of Germans, more than understandable if you recall just some of the 'Third Reich' horrors foisted upon them.  Actually, in 1939 Hitler had staged a camouflaged SS attack on a German radio station in the Polish town of Glewice (‘Gleiwitz’ in German), then claiming Polish partisans had raided the station, which in turn was ‘avenged’ by a German army campaign, which led to the outbreak of World War II.

So on an otherwise unremarkable day in Berlin my friend, now award-winning author Michal Szalonek suggests I “check out the vibe” in his Polish community, and invites me to a party with the buddies.  After all, he’d be there, and he got my back.  Alright, I’ll play. – That night we go to a high rise in the somewhat rough-hewn district of Neukölln, and enter the designated party spot.  There’s a Toy Dolls tape playing at full blast.  Michal introduces me to the round as “a German friend.”  A big, bulky Polish rockabilly comes at me, sizes me up, stares me squarely in the eye, and says, “Heil Hitler.”

Okay, I’m dead anyway.  So I flip him the bird, and say, Gleiwitz, pally. – One long second later he breaks into roaring laughter: “You’re alright.  You can stay.” – I dig this warm-and-cuddly, folksy thing.  Maybe there’s something to it.

You Don’t Know Cold

(1996)  One Christmas season I had a day job, so I actually made some money, and took a girlfriend to a cottage resort in the Haliburton Highlands.  It was in the deep of Northern Central Ontario winter, and they offered a hard-to-resist hot tub under the stars.  We went to check it out that night.  It was minus 36 degrees Celsius (plus wind chill), and dressed in clothes and bath robes we briskly walked the 50 meters from our cabin to the tub.  It was meekly sheltered by a plastic plane, and indeed open to the night sky; but the water was a warm 40 degrees, and a good time was had until two business men arrived to share the tub.  So we got out, and dressed as fast as we could.  Watching our skin turning blue, then a ghastly grey, we made a run for the cabin.  I had long hair then, and it completely froze on the way, as did my moustache.  At the door I grabbed the key from the pocket of my bath robe.  It froze to my fingers immediately. – We did make it in eventually, warmed up, and I’m here to tell the story.  But let me tell you, if they advertise a “hot tub under the stars” in Canadian winter, think about it.

Turbulent Indigo

(1994) In the mid-nineties I worked as lead guitarist for Canadian singer/songwriter Tim Harrison.  During our first summer we had a bit of a dry spell bridged by odd jobs, odd gigs, and, for me, several lessons in the School of Hard Knocks.  We had a few gigs at a place called Indigo Cafe near Queen & Spadina in downtown Toronto, right next to a tattoo parlour.  They set us up about four feet away from the espresso machine (which could have been our first clue).  They had a pool table in the back, and one night while we were playing it got pretty loud back there.  So our then road manager Vince MacNeil (of Eaglewood Folk Festival fame) walks to the back, where four leather-clad and heavily tattooed guys are arguing at the table.  “Excuse me,” our man says in his prettiest voice, “could you maybe be a little more quiet while the artists are playing?” – Nope.  “Oookay.”

During set break I went to the washroom in the basement.  In the wall there were two bullet holes.  We decided it was time to move on up.

Tim Harrison with Nick Naffin, 1995. Photo by Joel Wortzman

Moving Up

(1997)  The Tim Harrison Trio, comprised of Tim, cellist Alyssa Wright and me, were booked to play Global Network Television’s News at Noon.  We decided to play the Irish folk song ‘Carrickfergus’.  One of the show’s hosts, Bob MacAdorey, an old acquaintance from earlier TV appearances Tim and I had done, welcomed us heartily and made us feel comfortable.  We were sent to make-up, and got prettied up for the camera.  Then they sent us to the taping room, where we were told they had a few novelties on the show, including the fact that there were no more human camera operators in the room, but just two remote-controlled robot cameras.

I get nervous playing for television.  It’s pretty hot in the room, too, so sweating away under all that powder I sit on my barstool and await the cue.  We commence the tune, and a big robot with a red eye comes rolling at me.  (Did you see ‘Forbidden Planet’?)   I silently creep out, praying the camera goes over to Tim as we go into the chorus, and phew!, it does.  After the second chorus it’s time for the guitar solo.  The robot comes back.  I mimic heartfelt emotion.  The thing pulls nearer.  Forget the expression, now it’s about hitting the right fret at all... and the robot doesn’t stop.  The bastards in the control room are in for a close-up.  The camera hits the stage marker, keeps going, and buzzes at me, four inches from my fretting hand.  Tim can barely keep from laughing.  Should you ever see the clip somewhere, that heartbreaking guitar phrasing in the last bar, that’s not a vibrato.  That’s shaking.

Two hours later we sit in a bar discussing the gig.  A guy at the next table looks at me funny.  One time I’m sure he’s winking at me.  That’s when Alyssa and Tim tell me I forgot to take the make-up off.

Ostrich Massacre Talking Blues

(1997)  There was a fundraiser for the second Caledon Folk Festival at Toronto’s famous Horseshoe Tavern.  The concert was broadcast live by a local radio station, and there were quite a few great musicians and songwriters there, including Mose Scarlett, Norm Hacking, Glenn Maguire, and outstanding folk eccentric (not that there are any such characters in the scene) Joe Hall, writer of the quite unofficial Canadian anthem ‘Vampire Beavers’.  Joe and I met at some other festival a couple of years before and got into talking, as he’s of German descent, and liked to test a few old-fashioned German cuss-words on me now and then.

One of the sponsors of this festival turned out to be an ostrich farm near Bolton, Ontario.  Gearing up for the festival, they had put up a sumptuous buffet for the performers in the backstage area.  Looking for some food I perused the table.  I saw ostrich pizza, ostrich pastrami, ostrich jerky, ostrich sandwiches... when suddenly a tall, lanky shadow loomed over me.  “Guten Abend, Nick”, Joe Hall said in a gravely voice, and took a close look at the table.  Then he scratched his chin and said, “So that’s what happens when you stick your head in the sand.”

The Summer Of Our Discontent (Happy Harry's Hellhole)

(1997)  On tour from Toronto to the inaugural Stan Rogers Folk Festival in Canso, Nova Scotia.  It’s 32 degrees Celsius, and four people plus instruments and bags in a car; Tim Harrison, cellist Alyssa Wright, singer/bodhran player Beverly Kreller, and myself.  About thirty minutes out of Toronto, at Pickering the car’s air condition breaks down.  Since there are two non-smokers in the car, it is decided that Tim and I shall take smoke breaks now and then.  So once an hour we stop for ten, fifteen minutes, and it’s quickly becoming a very long tour.  After one hot and tedious day we stay at a motel in Quebec’s St.Louis du Ha-Ha.  Very funny. – During next, equally hot and humid day’s drive I mention I am going to get me a buzz cut somewhere the next day.  Tim Harrison says, “I can give you a buzz cut, Nick.  I’ve got a beard trimmer.”  That night we rest at what Tim calls “Happy Harry’s Hellhole” motel, somewhere in New Brunswick.  Tim and I set up a chair outside, and he starts working away at my hair with his beard trimmer.  “Oops,” he says. “What do you mean, ‘oops’?”  I am afraid.  “ Uh, Nick... you moved.” – “Did not.” – “Well, maybe you want to take a look at that,” Tim says.  I go inside to the mirror.  There’s a VISA card size gap on the side of my skull.  It is decided Tim will finish the job.  “That’s nice”, Alyssa comments.  “At least now I know what you will look like when you get lung cancer.” – The tour gets worse from there.

Bonus, though:  The next day we play a club called Aux Deuxieme in Moncton, New Brunswick.  I win the Jean-Luc Picard Lookalike Contest.

On tour, somewhere in Nova Scotia. Photo by Tim Harrison.

We Skip The Light Fandango

(2002)  Rule #1: I don’t do weddings.  On general principle.  Rule #2: Except if it’s friends.

And I don’t usually do requests.  Unless somebody has one.

So Naffin & Wright sit in a Toronto ballroom playing a wedding; there’s 35 degrees outside, the air condition conked out long ago, and I’m asking myself, how did I get here?

It started with an innocuous petition.  Won’t you guys play at our wedding?  We love you, and...   Rule #2 applies.  And what do you know, there’s a request.  We’d love ‘A Whiter Shade Of Pale’.  So Alyssa Wright and I go on the internet to find an official score of the old barnstormer.  What we do find eventually is an East Indian karaoke site, replete with lyrics and a bouncing ball, and an irresistibly wrong MIDI soundtrack.  We hunker down and practice.

THE DAY comes.  It’s scorching hot, and we’re set up at the back of the ballroom, next to the altar, with no visible line of escape to the bar.  We’re supposed to play as the bride comes in, and we’re ready.  Somebody gives us the cue, and here we go!  We play the verse; we play a passionate chorus, but the bride doesn’t come in.  We repeat; second verse, same as the first, a little bit louder and a little bit worse.  We feel the tune ... no bride.  I start contemplating a few variations.  ’’No Woman, No Cry’ would actually make a nice bridge...  Alyssa, a consummate professional who knows me well, shoots a warning glance.  Fine.  No signs of life at the door. – We play a third verse.  Signs of exasperation abound, handkerchiefs come out; now I’m thinking of ‘I Knew The Bride (When She Used To Rock’n Roll’)... YES!  The door opens, and here comes the bride, beautiful and radiant, an excusing smile on her face.  Her flowers had not been delivered on time.  A sigh goes through the room.  Here she is!, and her gangly walk up to the altar takes another 90 seconds, about half-a-verse, and another chorus.  Waiting there, her husband is smiling.  So is the audience, some of them discreetly covering their ears.  We finish, and in a rare feat of telepathy the last line goes “... turns a whiter shade of pale... and she’s buy-uy-ing a stairway to heaven.”

Rule #1 (2.0): I don’t do weddings, thank you.  Rule #2: No, really.

Donkey Day

(2003)  Naffin & Wright were asked to play the annual benefit at the Canadian Donkey Sanctuary near Peterborough, Ontario.  The sanctuary is a farm providing shelter and retirement to donkeys too old for farm or circus work, and the benefit, we were told, was quite a prestigious happening.  So we signed on, and played the main stage tent around noon.  There were quite a few folks, and a nice family atmosphere.  So when they asked us to do a second show at a smaller stage in the back we didn’t hesitate.  We set up on the back porch of the main house, with a good view of the numerous market stands, and the designated donkey areas to the right.  We start our second set, play our way through a couple of tunes, and get ready to do a little ballad I wrote called ‘Ear Of The Beholder’.  Now, this is a mellow Bossa Nova kind of tune that has been played with many folks in different styles across Canada.  It’s been done with Celtic band riverrun in Irish pubs in Toronto, at the Caledon Folk Festival’s ‘Axe Murder’ guitar workshop with Jason Fowler, with Don Ross at Eaglewood ... but today we’re doing it as a cello/guitar duo, or so it seems.

After the announcement, as we start the plaintive intro people get quiet and listen.  Then the Bossa groove starts, and, in plain view from our stage, on the meadow to our right a donkey starts humping a donkesse.  A fabulous sight.  Alyssa tries to get through her part without breaking up, and the audience, following our glances, catches on to the unexpected visual enhancement of our tune.  There goes the neighbourhood.

I’ve read people wrote to Pat Metheny their babies were conceived to the sounds of his classic ‘Are You Going With Me’.  Yeah, well...

Magic

(1981)  One summer when I was young I went to the Basque country.  These folk are hospitable, if somewhat reserved towards strangers; they are heartily Catholic, live between France and Spain, and have fought for their independence for 200 years, using means generally acceptable or not.  I visited the town of San Sebastian, and, short on money, I stayed at a cave on a local mountain.  Apparently this was a well-frequented place.  One night, after waiting until the park on the mountain closed, I went to go sleep there.  A gentle human being had left a palette in the cave, which I had put my sleeping bag on.  As I felt my way towards it in the dark, touching the palette with my foot, I heard a hefty grunt.  This Spanish hobo had made camp there, and was quite annoyed at my appearance. – Eventually we got into talking, and, gesturing our way through our communication, I learned the cave was his by right of having slept there for ten years.  I bought my own place to sleep (on the ground), and some peace of mind that night with frequent donations of very dry cigarette tobacco I had brought along from Denmark, where I had been earlier, and I got the lowdown on San Sebastian, and those punks who frequented the beach at night.

Actually, in need of a shower the next evening I went for a swim, hiding my clothes under a rock near the beach.  As I came back out of the water, four guys approached me in the dusk.  Como esta? – Esta playa, they said, es periculoso.  There was a shipping of something coming in that night, and they told me in no uncertain terms to get the hell out of there.  But they didn’t whack me, even if they could have easily, so I got a soft spot for them.

The next day I’m exploring the old town.  Around noon I’m scouting for a cheap helping of bread and chorizo, so I peek inside some restaurants when I hear an unearthly sound in the air.  Following it, I get to a cathedral.  I go inside, and there’s a local choir practicing with an organist.  I hear women in grief chanting Bach with a Hispanic twist, and all hunger’s forgotten.  Quietly crying I sit on a bench and listen, overwhelmed by the beauty of their music.  Later I shall return to the cave, fed by some slices of coconut, and a Martini from a beach vendor.  I turned 18 today, and life is good.

A Can Of Whoopass

(1981)  Earlier on that summer I get to the Swedish town of Kiruna in Laponia.  On the train I meet a fellow German from a town not thirty kilometres away from mine, and we decide to hike the mountains together for a day or two.  Next morning we take a train to Riksgränsen, and after a couple of hours we spot a deserted station with two or three ramshackle houses left around it; the perfect place to begin a hike.  The train’s conductor tells us they’ll pick us up same place that evening or next afternoon, so off we go.  We see a lake down the valley, and plan a little swim, and maybe a walk around the lake later.

It takes us two hours to get down to the lake, which now appears considerably larger than before.  It is around 4 PM, and pretty hot, so by now that little swim is pleasantly anticipated.  As we get closer to the lake we notice the land gets a little swampy.  After a while the path we’ve been on disappears, and now we really have to watch our steps.  We are about forty meters from the lakeshore, when we hear a sound buzz behind us.

We turn around, and see a giant cloud of mosquitoes rise from the swamp and coming for us.  There’s no turning back, so we decide to make a run for the lake, take shelter in the water, and figure out how to avoid getting eaten alive.  So we race to the shore, throw off the backpacks, and I run head over heels into the shallow water.

It is so cold it takes my breath away.  I can’t move, and immediately my legs turn white and blue.  My comrade suffers the same fate, and now the mosquitoes have at us.  We turn around and, wildly swatting, very slowly walk out of the water.  There’s got to be some bug repellent somewhere.  I’m trembling from cold shock, and from I can’t even guess how many mosquito bites already.  We frantically empty our packs, and, naturally, right at the bottom I find a bottle of Muskol, a two-in-one, widely used weapons lube and bug oil.  We just shower ourselves with it, squeezing the last drop out of the bottle to cover our backs.  But it’s much too late; there’s so many of them, and they are in a feeding frenzy.  They will not be repelled.

Eventually we make it out of the swamp back up the hill.  We badly need a rest, but we have so many bites it is impossible to sit, let alone lie down.  A good three hours later, of which I don’t remember much, we reach the old station and hope to God we didn’t already miss the train.  A while later it does come, they pick us up, and soundly beaten into oblivion we ride back to Kiruna.  We get the wagon to ourselves quickly, as we smell to high heavens of sweat and bug oil.  Our clothes stick to our bodies, and the sensation of backrest through cotton to the skin of my back is just exquisite. – “So, you’re not from around here, are you?” the conductor asks.

After another hour’s walk we make it from Kiruna station to the youth hostel we stayed at before.  They are completely booked, but seeing the state we’re in they take mercy on us, and put up a couple of cots in the hallway.  They’re out of hot water for a shower, though, so this evening’s feature performance comes to an end with all-together unprintable wails, and German expletives. – More dead than alive next morning we go for breakfast, and I peruse the map hanging on the dining room’s wall.  That lake, it turns out, is called Torneträsk.  It is entirely fed by water from surrounding glaciers, and it is 71 km long.

I’ve been over that manly thing of not asking for directions ever since.

Circles

(2003)  The day I went to Canada I took a flight from Munich to Toronto, with a three-hour stopover in London-Heathrow.  My body was not used to flying, and upon landing in Heathrow I temporarily lost about 60 percent of my hearing, a condition that disturbed my sense of balance as well.  So I checked in my luggage for the connecting flight, went for some shopping in the terminal, and still had an hour to kill before take-off.  I was a little worse for the wear, but slowly my hearing returned, and contemplating the impending nine-hour flight to Toronto I decided to go upstairs to the airport pub, have me a beer or two, and hopefully spend the rest of the flight sleeping.

The pub was full to the rafters.  I got me a Guinness at the counter, and, looking around, I saw a gentleman leaving from a table nearby, offering the only free seat in the place.  I approached, and was invited by two fellows to sit down.  One of them left shortly thereafter, and the remaining gentleman and I got into talking.  He introduced himself as a businessman ‘in computers’, and told me he was an Englishman living in France, but mostly travelling the world on business, and having a girlfriend in Brazil.  I told him I was on my way to relocating in Toronto, and we talked about Canada a bit.  All told, he appeared a little sleazy to me, and I didn’t feel quite relaxed, or comfortable in his presence.  When I got ready to leave for my plane, he invited me to stay; he’d buy me another beer or two.  Well, excuse me, I said, but I’m on my way to Toronto, so...  “Well, maybe we meet again some time”, he said, and wished me luck in Canada.

Ten years later, almost to the day, I’m on my way from Toronto to Amsterdam, and there is a stopover at a different airport, in London-Gatwick.  I am pretty sick and hurting at the time, as my hip replacement is in dire need of an oil-and-lube (actually, it’s in need of a complete overhaul, but I don’t know that yet), so after checking in my luggage I limp up to the first floor to get me a good pint of Guinness at the airport pub.  The place is pretty full, and there is only one free seat at a small table.  I approach, and there’s that same guy sitting at the table.  It takes me a couple of seconds to recognize him, but I swear he wore the same tweed jacket, too.  Can you imagine how creeped out I am? – He recognizes me, too.  “Where have we met before?”, he asks.  Ten years ago, at Heathrow, I say.  “Ah, right”, he says, “You’re a guitar player, right? – So, how did it go in Canada?”

As they call for my connecting flight to Amsterdam, he invites me to another pint.  Well, excuse me, but... “Oh well”, he says.  “But it was good to meet you again.”

Now, what would you say are the odds of that? – Ten years later, a different airport in England, and that same guy.  I’m telling you, if I ever meet him again, I’ll freak.

Northern Comfort

(2002)  I)  One summer up North Ontario I heard a radio interview with a gun & ammo salesman from Sudbury.  His bestselling article was bear bangers, little sticks filled with gunpowder sold as a substitute for bringing a real gun along in the wilderness.  When triggered, they do produce quite a boom, so if you happen to have a close encounter, they are supposed to scare a bear away from you.  The radio reporter asked the guy, do these actually work?  Well, he said, it gives you something to do while the bear comes at you.

II)  My friend, expatriate Scot, Canadian landscape painter Andrew Hamilton and I did a few of what we’d call ‘working holidays’ up Northern Ontario.  Why, because we are men, and once a year we officially have to be stupid.  Usually these trips involved a Jeep, a canoe, a guitar; doing a painting or two, writing a tune, talking about God and the world at the campfire until four o’clock in the morning, and generous helpings of ‘Yukon Jack’ whiskey liquor (which, due to the irresistible combination of whiskey and honey, is a commendable prescription if you want to keep warm and pleasantly hammered at night).  One of these nights Drew told me a story about Canadian painter Tom Thomson.  Thomson was an accomplished bush man and paddler, and liked to bring a rope and a rock from the shore, throw anchor, and sleep in his canoe on the lakes of Algonquin Park.  So later that night I took the boat out, and marvelled at the splendid night sky.  Hanging there, your perception does change.  I sat there, losing my bearings and slowly keeling over to the side, gravity suspended between the lake and the stars.  It’s hard to describe, and better left to men like Thomson and one Archie Belaney, but the stars become down there, and you’re floating in some no-man’s-land between dark water, shadowy pines, and the stars.

A couple of hours later I made my way back to shore, scolded by my friend remarking I had been such an idiot for forgetting to take a flashlight along (and the steak would be past its prime by now, but at least he’d been trying to take care of the liquor before it got bad). – Alright, but this here idiot’s outlook on life changed ever since that night, and that sky.  It was worth it.

Silent Lake, Ontario, Canada by NN